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Ants
Acrobat Ants
Argentine Ants
Big Headed Ants
Carpenter Ants
Crazy Ants
Fire Ants
Ghost Ants
Harvester Ants
Little Black Ants
Odorous House Ants
Pavement Ants
Pharaoh Ants
Sugar Ants
Thief Ants
White-Footed Ants

Tips for Baiting Ants

Baits are particularly effective on social insects such as ants, because these pests collect food and share it with their colony through a process called trophallaxis.

Because of this food-sharing ability, a slow-acting insecticide bait such as MAXFORCE or ADVANCE is great for controlling ants, because the colony members have time to share the bait with other members of the colony before they die.

The use of indoor bait stations such as the ANT CAFE'S will preserve and protect baits.

Remove competing food sources! Baits are not effective in areas with abundant food sources that serve as a rival food source like :  crumbs on the floor; pet's feeding dishes; trash cans; baby foods or formulations spilled on counters; any liquid spills (old or new); soiled clothing or diapers; syrup or honey bottles not properly cleaned; open sugar bowls; open food packages; or old candy or other food sources underneath appliances or furniture.  You get the picture!

Another type of bait competition comes from aphids and scale insects producing honey dew outside.  If you do notice mold like substance on your perimeter plants treat the ornamentals with an appropriate labeled product like Tempo, Talstar, or Suspend.

Use fresh bait, once the container is opened it needs to be used within 6 months to 1 year.  If not, it becomes stale and unacceptable to the ants, not having a good acceptance.

Do not use insecitcidal sprays or dusts before or during baiting treatment.  Contact or a residual insecticide applied some time prior to treatment or during the baiting treatments, sets a hostile environment, suppressing foraging activity from the foraging ants.

Sprinkle or apply a small amount of bait close to the area where ants are foraging.  Take a few minutes to determine where the ants are going. Once you establish their entrance point, make your bait placements at that point. That way they don�t have forage as far, and they be better able to recruit other members of the colony to the new food source, or bait.  When observing ants, be patient.  Sometimes it can take up 30 minutes or more to get an idea of where to place your baits.  If the ants are not immediately taking to your bait, place it areas where they are foraging and remove any and all competing food sources!  

Do not use baits on wet surfaces. This will make the bait less desirable to the ants --- remember the ants perceive the baits as a potential food source.  Do not wash away your bait or apply a cleaning solution in the immediate vicinity of your bait.  Any kind of bait contamination will render the bait useless.  You may even have trouble with bait acceptance even after refreshing the bait because of the previous contaminations.  Be Careful.   

Be very thorough when baiting.  If at all possible locate possible entry points, looking for their trails, placing bait in those areas.  With an ant bait granular, you can actually watch them pick it up and take it back to their colony.  Go the extra mile and watch where they take it.  Don't just presume that their colony is behind kitchen cabinet because that is where she disappears to.  Get up on the counter and see if they are foraging up on top of the cabinets or across door molding and in to another room completely.  Your efforts, persistence and patience will pay off, I promise.  

If the ants are for sure making their way in from the outside, then it would be easiest to simply treat the ants directly on the outside with an insecticide residual such as Tempo or Demand.

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO REMOVE ANY OTHER FOOD COMPETITION WHEN BAITING, AND LEAVE THE BAIT ALONE ONCE THE ANTS START FEEDING ON IT. 

And finally,  BE PATIENT!  Baiting takes time.  It can be, at times, an ongoing or continuous process. Good Luck.

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